Wednesdays with Laurie

Attending the auction at The Palais Dorotheum 3 out of 4 weeks in Vienna makes me a self-proclaimed creature of habit.  Attending with a 9 year old boy in tow makes me certifiable.

The Dorotheum was established in 1707 and is one of the largest auction houses in Europe.  They host specialized auctions, accept consignments and run a number of retail store fronts selling estate art, antiques, decorative objects and jewelry.  Think Pawn Stars meets Louis Vuitton.

Palais Dorotheum

The Dorotheum also runs daily auctions every Wednesday at 2pm.  This is where we enter the picture.

Modern Gallery

Rug and Antique Gallery

If I play my cards right, by that I mean literally win The World Series of Poker, I will someday buy a treasure at the auction.  For now, it is a watching and learning experience.  Oh and with Jake in tow, I need to make sure he does not stretch or else we will be walking out with a pair of 19th Century Russian Kommodes for 4000 Euros.

Jake with One Russian Kommode

The auctions are in German (for some reason I expected English, I really must be delusional) and they have a cadence all their own, the announcement and description of the lot, a picture on a large television screen, the bidding, and finally a small bell then sold! to the highest bidder.  There is also a handful of "usual suspects", people I've noticed at every auction, the big spender who bids on and wins multiple lots in a row, the elderly woman who collects porcelain, the rug couple and the train guy.   Interestingly, there have only been a handful of times when there have been multiple bids, usually on art.  The Dorotheum adds 25% at the closing bid for the house.  If you bid, 8 times out of 10 you will win.  Those are some pretty good odds, so for now, we sit with our hands glued to our sides and enjoy the show.

Lights, Camera, Auction!

I was able to snap some of my favorite lots until I was snapped at for breaking the rules.  Whoops.

18th Century Joop! Closet 

Marquetry, Parquetry, Marble, Ormulu, Oh My!

It Don't Mean a Thing, if it Ain't Got That Bling

What's in Your Closet?

Please do me a favor.  Right now.  Walk into your bedroom, open your closet and whisper these three little words:  "I Love You."  The bottom line is that we don't realize how much we take household conveniences for granted, until we don't have them.  Like air conditioners, frost free refrigerators and built in bedroom closets.

Today, I am having a Meat Loaf moment, because right now I have 2 out of 3.  And that ain't bad.

Back to the question, "who intentionally moves into an apartment with no closets?"  Well, we did.  We must have been so taken by the Viennese charm of the place that we overlooked that little detail.  Or perhaps it was too many schnitzels and beer.

Closets are not part of the floor plan in many older apartments.  Last I checked, ours was built in the late 19th Century.  Between you and me, there has been plenty of time to right this wrong.  One week ago the space in our bedroom where a closet should be was looking like this:

What you don't see are the additional 4 wardrobe boxes lining the hallway.  So started the Great Closet Search of 2013.  We quickly learned two things:  closets are sold with bedroom sets and they are not cheap.

Training the Youth not to Expect a Built-in Closet

Then there is JOOP! Actually, that was the sound I made when I opened the closet and saw the price.

JOOP!

Holy %$#ing JOOP!  

Yes, that is the price for the closet only.  About $3000. depending on the exchange rate.  It was at that moment, Mike decided to take control of the situation.  I've never seen him shop with such gusto.  Eagle Eye Johnson quickly zeroed in on the deal of the day and his Bank Austria credit card flew by me in a flash.

We Have Clearance Clarence

Less than one week later our bedroom closet was installed, prompting Jake to ask "When do I get a one?"  I think I will leave that to Eagle Eye Johnson, who quickly sorts through the JOOP! to find the gem.

Closets are a Girl's Best Friend

Now, with temperatures expected to hit 99 degrees with 60% humidity this weekend, the only question that remains is:  "who intentionally moves into an apartment with no air conditioning?"

Dora the Explorer

Of course I promised Jake we would spend our time exploring Vienna as soon as we arrived.

He decided to cash in on that promise last week.  Like Dora and Boots, we planned an adventure every day, except for Tuesday when our household shipment arrived.  Truth be told, getting out of the apartment daily is a good thing, only so much time can be spent with a roll of shelf paper and a swiffer.

Monday we toured the 40 public rooms at Schonbrunn Palace, the Rococo summer digs of the Hapsburg monarchy.  Schonbrunn is also where that Salzburg sensation, six year old W.A. Mozart (and his sister) performed in 1762, much to the delight of Empress Maria Theresia and family.  After the Palace tour, we climbed the hill behind Neptune Fountain to the Gloriette for some views and a much needed strudel and ice cream break.  We also took our first iPhone "selfie"which is preserved on this blog for hilarity's sake.  

View from Gloriette to Schonbrunn Palace

Gloriette

Our First iPhone Selfie

Behind Neptune Fountain

Getting Misty at Neptune Fountain

A View Toward Great Parterre

Garden at Great Parterre

Jake and "Baby Mozart"

By Wednesday, we were back out again.  This time a stroll through the Albertina to view "Monet to Picasso", a collection spanning 130 years of art history.  We each picked our favorites from the collection-I went traditional, while Jake selected the avant-garde.

Emil Nolde "Moonlit Night" 1914

Georg Baselitz "B. fur Larry" 2006 

Thursday's outing was dedicated to Mozart.  St. Marx Friedhof Cemetery (1784-1874) is where Mozart was buried in a mass grave in 1791.  The current marker sits at what is presumed to be the correct burial site.  We quickly located Mozart and spent the rest of our time wandering the cemetery overwhelmingly filled with blank markers and stones worn down by time.  Restoration on some gravestones is taking place and we really enjoyed the spooky vibe.  Until we reached the open crypt.  Then it was time for more strudel and ice cream.  Oh and Mommy needed her gespritzer weisswein (I am learning German, one drink at a time.)

Mozart View One in A Minor

Mozart View Two in A Minor

Eternally Blank

Dont' Fear The Reaper

A Row of Stories Unknown

Friday we shopped for closets.  Really.  Stay tuned for the excitement of closet shopping in Vienna.  Makes St. Marx Friedhof Cemetery look like one hell of a party.

Tears of a Clown

Oh, the excitement of an international relocation!  Frankly, I don't know what excited me the most, the departure or the arrival.  Obviously, both are filled with anticipation and chaos.  Watching the container be packed to go was a thrill.  Everything was relatively organized and there were few concerns after the final decisions about what was being shipped, sold and stored.  I say this now with some perspective on the events.  Those kind souls who were so supportive through my whining, rambling and disorganization will hopefully appreciate my ability to "grow".

After more than 6 weeks of camping out, first in our guest house, then hotel and finally our apartment in Vienna, the call came that our container had arrived and passed customs.  We survived on a few suitcases, folding chairs and travel sized toiletries, what more did we need?  Oh wait, a house full of  real furniture and possessions was ready to be delivered.  I missed my "stuff", although I could not remember exactly what it all was.  Until some of it arrived broken and damaged.

The morning started off great.  Six movers bringing in boxes, taking away empty boxes, following directions about what went where, and they even spoke English.  Oh joy!  Mike's Dad's bar arrived first and in great condition.  Once set in place, it looked ready to serve up a cocktail and a smile, always in memory of Vern.  The bar is a custom made, mid-century modern piece that travelled the world with Vern and now Mike.

Next the boxes of glassware, dishes, china and stemware.  I overpacked, but all survived except for one piece, whew.  The Lladro collection was intact.  The art and decor, all fine.  I was thinking to myself, we are golden, this move is a cinch, let's move to Tokyo next.  

Then the mood shifted as large furniture pieces were unpacked with significant damage.  A prized thrift store couch, 10 feet of authentic 1960s Kroehler, reupholstered to perfection in aqua, was damaged beyond repair.  Our living room buffet had a large hole though the top.  Our new nightstand was broken.  The air compressor on the sleep number bed fried on the 110V to 220V transformer, leaving it a flat pancake.  This was just too much.  I cried like a baby.

So this morning, in safety, good health and surrounded by the multitude of possessions that successfully took a trip across two Continents and one Ocean, I regain perspective.  A few more things come to mind.  In chaos there is opportunity.  Insurance is a good thing.  I love to shop.  Finally, as I unwrap one more dish from a box:

35A to Salmannsdorf

One week of fun camp for Jake at the American School.  4 trips on public transport to and from the American School for me.  About 40-45 minutes each way in the morning and 5 and a half years in the afternoon.  I'm talking dog years.  The daily routine involves a short, pleasant U-Bahn trip to the Spittleau station, a bus ride through the 19th District with 18 stops each way on the 35A to Salmannsdorf, and a walk up 4 Mt. Everest-like hills to the American School.  Easy peasy, except the bus in the afternoon is like a can of ripe sardines careening down a hill of gopher holes.  After the first journey of misery, Jake and I started in with "witty" quips such as:  "the 35A to Salmannsdorf has its' own weather system:  hot and humid with a 99% chance of rancid body odor" or "if you are looking for a good time in Vienna, skip the 35A to Salmannsdorf".  After experiencing shortness of breath, muscle soreness and buckets of sweat, we even began calling the walk UP to school the 4 phases of "Heart Attack Hill".  The pictures are from my phone, so please excuse the quality.

35A to Salmannsdorf

Phase 1 of Heart Attack Hill

Phase 2

Phase 3

Phase 4

Today, I learned what happens when one mocks the 35A to Salmannsdorf.

Following a short, pleasant U-Bahn trip, we approached our nemesis, snickering about the ride and walk ahead.  Halfway through our journey, a man wearing a shirt decked out with the stars and stripes of Old Glory, boards the bus and starts speaking to each passenger.  "Giffelteushgitte" or something like that, since I don't understand German.  By the time he gets to us, I've figured out he is checking tickets.

Important Side Note:  Public transportation in Vienna is on the honor system.  If caught without a ticket, the fine is 500 Euros.  Mike has warned me to always carry my ticket, just in case.  This morning, I changed purses.  You know where this is headed.  Salmannsdorf.

I fumble around my bag looking for a ticket that is not there.  Jake gets embarrassed and pretends he does not know me since children ride free.  I frantically pull out old tickets (see! I've paid before!), lipstick, iPhone, used tissues, pieces of purse fuzz......I run out of options.   Jake is now yelling "C'mon Mom, find your ticket!"  Other bus riders stare off into space with exasperated looks.  The ticket checker, seeing and hearing our obvious distress, shakes his head and moves on with no further action.  I doubt he will ever wear his Old Glory shirt to work again.

With newfound humility and respect, I purchased a return ticket from the bus driver.  There is one more day of camp remaining.  One more day on the 35A.

Your Palace Awaits

We arrived in Vienna on June 30.  The travel here was a blur of airports, Houston, Frankfurt and Vienna.  Then 5 large suitcases, 1 golf club travel bag, 3 rolling carry-ons, 3 backpacks and 3 weary travelers barely stuffed into a "dinky" station wagon cab to our apartment on Reisnerstrasse.  Our palace in Vienna is a lovely apartment within walking distance of the City Centre and adjacent to StadPark.  First order of business for Jake and Mike was kicking the soccer ball in StadPark and then again in the park adjacent to the Hofburg.  For me, it was a snooze on a park bench.  Jet lag.

On our first full day in Vienna, Jake and I uncovered the treasure that is Belvedere Palace.  Upper and Lower Belvedere were completed in the 18th Century (1723) as the summer residence of Prince Eugene of Savoy (1663-1736).  It is a baroque lovers dream come true and just a 5 minute walk from our apartment.  First, we wandered through the University of Vienna Botanical Garden and spied a taste of Tucson.

Then a taste of China.

Then we turned the corner and went for baroque.

The Upper Belvedere houses a collection of art from Medieval to Modern, including masterworks from Klimt, Monet, Renoir, Munch, and Mamet.  The upper and lower palaces are connected by pristine paths, gardens, fountains and a spectacular view of Vienna.  Just remember, don't drink the fountain water.

There was so much to enjoy, we visited again to tour the Lower Belvedere Gallery and Prince Eugene's private gardens.  This is one neighbor we will drop in to visit again and again.